Discover the best things about Honfleur, our favorite French winter destination, a picturesque town on the Normandy coast. It’s the best place to go in France in the winter, other than Paris of course!

Darling Honfleur

What’s the deal with Honfleur? Why is it so damn cute? Well, it was a flourishing pirate town in the sexy 17th century when most of the cuteness was built. Successful pirates from long ago and their pals built the multi-story houses that gives the port its distinctive charm. Pirates were attracted the convenient location, discreetly tucked away behind a high hill kind of hiding it from river traffic and right across the river from Le Havre, the major port for marine trade in Northern France that serves Paris and beyond. Le Havre and Honfleur are on either side of the Seine River (the same that runs through Paris) where the river meets the sea. Perfect pirates hang out. Today, it beckons to those with a penchant for adorable Normandy style architecture, stellar seafood, and refined experiences. I invite you to unravel your own story in this historic town, explore the cobbled lanes and maritime beauty that has captivated discerning travelers for centuries.

What to DO IN HONFLEUR:

Honfleur is a sanctuary of slow travel. It’s easy to slip into the unhurried pace of life and pretend the modern world with all her pressing demands and TikTok videos are many centuries away. Gather your provisions at the morning market, retreat to your darling apartment to make a lunch of fresh turbot and steamed leeks washed down with a glass or two of local cider and then, go ahead, take nap until it’s time for a quayside apero where you can people watch until it’s time for dinner at one of the many delectable restaurants.

After your “nap” head back to the Vieux Bassin for an evening drink where you and your love can hold hands and watch people watching people and drink more cider. The place with the best view is the Maison Bleu. If drinking and sitting is not your vibe, take a hike up to the Chapel Notre Dame de Grace on the hill above the town. This church, which was built on land donated by the Madame de Montpensier, yes that one (mistress to the Sun King), and is where sailors/pirates came to pray for deliverance before their perilous sea voyages. Nearby there’s a lookout point with a satisfying view of the old town.

WhERE TO EAT IN HONFLEUR:

Le Vieux Honfleur at 13 Quai Saint-Etienne is just next door to the Maison Bleu with an equally postcard setting and a terrace opening onto the Vieux Bassin also happens to be the oldest restaurant in the city, and you know I like old. But I also like new, especially when it comes to food.

What to see IN HONFLEUR:

Take a stroll around the picturesque Vieux Bassin and rest your eyes on the reflection of the colorful buildings dancing on the water, which inspired the likes of Monet. Check out the art galleries showcasing a mix of contemporary and classic works that speak to the city's creative spirit. We like the  Galerie Chaye at 6 Pl. Arthur Boudin because it’s in one of the most ancient and important buildings in the town, a vestige of its pre-pirate, medieval past. Belonging to the Seigneur de Roncheville since the 12th century this building and it’s subsequent incarnations was assigned as governor’s residence at the end of the Hundred Years' War by Charles VII, but most of what you see today is in historic sync with its 17th century neighbors.

When to GO TO HONFLEUR:

Unlike so many summer tourist destinations, Honfleur does not lose its charm in winter. It’s cosy, it’s adorable, it’s warm and inviting; all the things you want when it’s cold and grey. Especially with your lover. Sure, it’s great in the summer, but the winter months unveil a distinct serenity to this coastal town that makes it a romantic haven for those seeking an intimate escape. It’s not surprising that Eric Satie came from here and you can hear the sensual quietude of Honfleur in the winter in his Gymnopédie.

WE GOT THIS:

Travellur is the France slow travel specialist. We know and love Honfleur. Let us together, you and me, design a winter visit here that will warm your heart and be the romantic touchstone of your love. So that all you have to do is say Honfleur, darling when you get home and bring out a bottle of cider with some Eric Satie to set the mood for romance. We have self-guided tours for you, can tell you the best place to buy cider and Calvados, and how to get to that oyster bar on a boat. Yes, we’ll get you from Paris to Honfleur easily and book that secret restaurant for you too.  

The main market is held on Saturday mornings all year, and there’s an organic on Wednesday mornings around the great wooden church of Sainte-Catherine and its belfry tower. There you’ll find gorgeous local produce and cheeses, wines and of course cider and Calvados. My very, very favorite cider is Peres Jules, you must ask for it by name. It’s dry and fruity and full bodied and will entirely change your mind about cider. Calvados is something like brandy made from apples. Delicious. Devilish. Bring some home for Dad. The freshest fish comes from a guy selling the day’s catch from the dock in front of his boat, just next to the town hall and its requisite carousel. Of course, a place this cute has a carousel. It’s France!

If you have a car or taxi and can drive about 10 minutes to the edge of town, then book a table at Bistro la Boucane at the Ferme Saint Siméon. Lovely location with views of the river, it’s beach and estuary. Wonderful food served in a minimalist dining room housed in a 17th century cottage with thatched roof. I’d also recommend my most favorite restaurant which serves Peres Jules cider and ingenious contemporary creations by a star chef who left his Michelin starred restaurant to start something young and accessible. You will certainly eat there if you book your trip through Travellur.

Honfleur has long been a muse for artists. Some art historians propose that Honfleur is the birthplace of impressionism. Anyway, the place seems to foster a creative spirit. This artistic legacy is immortalized in the works of luminaries like Eugène Boudin and Claude Monet, who found inspiration in the town's captivating vistas. The Eugène Boudin Museum, in the heart of Honfleur, is a magnet for art enthusiasts, showcasing not only Boudin's masterpieces but also a collection that traces the evolution of the Honfleur School.

Where to stay IN HONFLEUR:

For an unforgettable stay with views and pampering, book a suite at the Relais & Châteaux hotel La Ferme Saint Siméon, yes, the one with the Bistro la Boucane. It also has a gastronomic restaurant and its own bee hives. They can even arrange a horse drawn carriage ride in and around the town for you and your beloved. Or you may want something with more privacy. There are nice rentals on Airbnb but do your diligence in checking the reviews and location before booking it. Travellur has contacts with privately rented apartments that we know and trust.

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