Slow Travel Tuscany
Just when my love for Provence was reaching epic proportions, I met Tuscany and fell in love all over again. I hope you have the same problem.
Tuscany checks all my boxes for cultural authenticity, historic context and scenic beauty - an ideal slow travel destination. With so much goodness packed into a relatively small area, you can stay in one village and still have plenty of things to see, do and taste within an hours drive. Imagine yourself gazing over rolling hills serated with rows of lovingly tended grape vines and topped with medieval villages, the afternoon light pouring over the ancient stone terrace where you are sitting with your homemade gelato. Nowhere to go, no one to be, nothing to do but enjoy the view and the gooey deliciousness of gelato.
Adrift in the demands of daily life, more and more of us are turning away from over-stimulation, high expectation and excessive busy-ness. Mindfulness, simplifying, and cutting back are trends gaining traction as we feel the strain of burn out, anxiety and perceived inadequacy. But incorporating “slow” into our daily routine is challenging. It requires small daily steps and a philosophical commitment that, over time, result in a life change. Travel gives us the opportunity to design our best slow life without the obstacles presented in daily life.
Tuscany is the perfect setting for your slow life experiment. You will rest at artful accommodations hosted by families proud of their local heritage and happy to share it. You will find without even looking, exceptional foods and wines made by artisanal producers following traditional methodology. You will find yourself irresistibly drawn into a slower rhythm of life surrounded by living masters of the art of living.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Head south along the insanely scenic Chiantigiana Road towards Greve in Chianti, where in September there is a massive wine festival celebrating the world class Chianti wines of the region. Make a slight detour for Montefioralli, and stretch your legs with a walk around the rustic village with roughly paved lanes surrounded by vineyards. Okay every village around here is surrounded by vineyards, but this one is particularly darling. Watch for heart-stopping views of the village on the road from Greve in Chianti. Along the way you might need to stop for refreshment at the Verrazzano winery and enjoy the views that Leonardo Da Vinci inserted behind the Mona Lisa.
There is a beautifully crenulated winery that offers a sunset tours not too far from Monteriggioni called the Castello di Brolio. Dominating the surrounding countryside, it’s reddish stone built castle walls are visible from miles around. You can visit the castle, take a tour of the winery and even have dinner at their restaurant specializing in Chianti cuisine and produce.
Just south of Siena, go for lunch in Bonconvento village at La Porta di Sotto (homemade paste, yo!) and take a turn around this charming walled village. Then cruise another thirty minutes, grab a gelato and explore the ivy covered old town of Pienza. While in Pienza try their local Pecorino cheese known for its unique flavor due the grasses and herbs of the surrounding fields.
WHEN TO GO:
I think the best time to go is in September and October. The summer crowds and heat have subsided, the grape harvest is coming in and there are wine and food festivals in many of the little towns. Of course the summer is lovely too, but bear in mind that August is very hot and crowded with tourists. Second best time to go is May when the weather is fine but not too hot and the fields and orchards are bursting with life. Another way to think of the best time to go is depending on what you want to enjoy. If it’s wine, go in the September, if it’s truffles go in October, if it’s tomatoes go in July.
The Chianti region between Florence and Siena has the most to offer in terms of sights, accommodations, and crazy gorgeous natural beauty. Don’t worry, the good food and wine is everywhere. Fly into Florence international airport and rent a car to propel you into the Tuscan countryside. I would recommend finding a hotel, vacation rental or farm stay in or around a village at least 20 minutes south of Florence. Yes, Florence is stunning and definitely worth a visit, especially if you are an art history lover, but this blog is about the delights of the countryside. If you stay less than a week, you will feel like you didn’t get enough. If you can stay a month, a few days into your stay you will realize you made the right decision.
A day trip idea could be to visit the villages of Volterra and nearby San Gimignano bristling with lithe renaissance towers. If you are staying in the neighborhood, cruise into town on market day – Thursday in the Piazzo Duomo in San Gimignano and Saturday morning in the Piazza dei Priori in Volterra. It will be a tasty emersion into the local routine and a chance to discover the regional specialties.
Just north of Siena you’ll want to see the teacup sized Monteriggioni which was mentioned in Dante’s Divine Comedy. This tiny village (or is it a castle?) was built by the Sienese in the early 13th century and neatly contained in a circular medieval curtain wall. Park in the parking lot at the bottom of the hill and follow the path up to one of the two ancient city gates. After your visit, make time for lunch at Futura Osteria, a slow food restaurant just down the road. Tucked away in a stone hamlet you’ll find simple fare in a simple setting with views of the village surrounded, of course, by vineyards.
I could wax poetic about every little village in Tuscany, each one has its own charms and hidden gems. But today I just want to give you a taste of the slow life Tuscan style and invite you to come see for yourself. Come feel the sun on your back as you walk the country lane to catch the best view of the next town. Come for the Spring peas in March, succulent peaches in the summer and fragrant truffles hiding under crunchy autumn leaves. Come browse the local markets and ask the veggie man what to buy, what's in season, and how to prepare it.
Slow down, make detours, be spontaneous, be present. Slow travel is a richer way to travel.
WHERE TO STAY:
So many lovely choices for kinds of travellurs and all kinds of budgets in this enchanted kingdom!
For groups, I would recommend the Borgo Argiano where Dario runs a newly renovated, elegant yet understated rental property with large suites but also available for privatization. For a truly unique (and inexpensive) family experience you could stay at the enigmatic Certosa Pontignano, a 12th century Carthusian monastery with gardens, cloisters and majestic frescos in it’s church. Couples will like the full service elegance of the Hotel Fontanelle and it’s sweeping views of the romantic Chianti landscape. Book through Travellur and get 15% off advertised prices, a complimentary breakfast buffet, a bottle of Chianti wine, a free tour of their winery and if you book a suite, a 50€ spa credit and a 50€ food & beverage credit.
For explorers, I recommend finding a vacation rental outside a small town or village where parking is easy. Some neighborhoods in towns are pedestrian only. Which is great if you want to walk to the market, but not so great if you plan on driving to explore further afield.
WE GOT THIS:
If I put down here everything I want to share with you about Tuscany, this blog would be about 20 pages long and you would be sleeping. But if what you’ve read in this brief description inspires you to foIlow your heart to Italy, contact Travellur when you have your dates. Let’s talk about making a custom slow travel itinerary that fits your budget and interests. Our custom travel services probably won’t cost you more than if you planned it yourself. But you’ll save precious time before your trip and wont waste time looking for things during your trip. Your overall experience will be smoother, richer and you might even get a free room upgrade.
Contact us for a free consultation.