Find out the best things to do in Halkidiki from a sophisticated, slow travel point of view. Looking for a laid back, authentic and refreshingly affordable Mediterranean beach vacation this year? Let me tell you about a place I know…
Halkidiki Greece.
Never heard of it? Exactly my point.
It’s slow, sunny and delightfully under the radar. Imagine endless stretches of white sand beaches, relaxed boutique hotels and sleepy seaside villages all with a dusting of mythic Greek history. Located in north-eastern mainland Greece this region is little known by western Europe and Americans. The region has the perfect combination of that distinctive Greek light, unspoiled landscapes and the fragrance of pine and sea. This glorious natural setting is complemented by the rich history and culinary fare combined in the living traditions of its people.
Served by Greece ‘s second largest airport, Thessaloniki, it’s easy to find direct flights from most European cities and large US hubs. Ten minutes out of the airport you are in vacationland. If you take a look at a map, you’ll see that the Halkidiki province is comprised of three fingers of land reaching into the Aegean Sea just south of Thessaloniki. Each finger offers a different feeling, but all share beautiful blue green water and rare natural beauty.
The busiest, most developed finger is Kassandra which hosted a great battle between Greek gods and giants in mythic times. Today, it hosts a number of fine resorts, beach clubs and a precious hot spring spa which apparently is a direct result of giants buried below. The middle finger (ahem…) is Sithonia, named after Posidon’s son Sithos, is a perfect choice for nature lovers. This is where you’ll find yourself alone on a beach in August below rugged mountain peaks. The third and most mystic finger is Mt. Athos, a UNESCO protected holy place that is actually an autonomous monastic state. Over twenty monasteries can be found here dating from the Byzantine period. But unless you are viewing it from your boat, you must be a man and have a special permit to visit.
If you’re headed for Sithonia, you’ll want to visit Kalamitsi beach, a wide, golden sand bay with a small island in the center, big enough to handle summer crowds and still provide a quiet spot between beach bars and restaurants. I also like Atki Elias beach, slim, sexy, and tucked away behind a screen of pines clinging to rocky cliffs, this small beach has a boho beach bar, golden sand and crystal-clear water due to its pebbles. If you like quiet off the beaten track beaches, don’t sleep on Spathies with its smooth granite rocks and cove-y quietude. No sunbeds or restaurant but a good bet if you want tranquility.
WHEN TO GO:
Halkidiki is great May through October. Average daytime temperatures in June are 23C (78F), and that’s when even the most delicate swimmers can get in the water. July and August are the hottest months where most days are around 27C (81F). The warmest sea temperatures are in August at 25C (77F). As with so many Mediterranean beach destinations, I’m going to recommend going in September when summer crowds are receding and sea temperatures are still ideal.
WE GOT THIS:
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But what about the beaches?
The best beach in Kassandra is right in front if you’re staying at the Sani resort where a large portion of Sani beach is privatized and therefore wonderfully quiet and serving drinks. Xenia Beach is a good one for the kids with its sand and shallow water, plus plenty of parking and amenities. If it’s too crowded, opt for Hroussou beach a kilometer down the road. Not to be missed is Possidi beach with a sparking spit of white sand surrounded by shallow turquoise water. My favorite is tiny Agia Paraskevi beach, a pebble beach nearby shops and restaurants but cached behind cliffs and pines. Tip: it’s just below that thermal hot springs, so make time for a sunset soak in a hot mineral bath after the beach.
Three things I love about Halkidiki;
the relative obscurity, the superb beaches and the price. The region mostly caters to eastern European tourists and historically has provided mostly budget and semi-camping accommodations. This has kept the region under the radar and under-developed, which in my book, counts as a good thing. Today, there are a handful of luxury resorts and new hipster-chic boutique hotels sprouting up as discerning travellurs discover the charms of Halkidiki. Aside from the luxe choices, a typical B&B or guestroom is less than 120€/night, delicious fresh Greek food is about 12€ per person at breezy beachfront tavernas. Affordability and the multitude of serviced, shallow water beaches make this area a obvious choice for families with children.
Besides the obvious appeal of beach days and watersports like boating and sea kayaking around placid coves and inlets, the hinterland has a number of kid friendly attractions. Prehistoric caves, ancient monasteries, densely forested mountain hiking trails or birdwatching in the Sani wetlands bird sanctuary are daytime alternatives to sunny, sandy beach days. Overall, there’s lots to love about this place, not only the price and the view.
WHERE TO STAY:
At the top of the sexy sleek spectrum, you have the Sani Resort starting at 300€+ per night, while family room accommodation at a typical vacation apartment with no service or breakfast is less than 80€/night. Hipster vibes at Ekies are 170€- 750€ per night. The selection of holiday rentals is getting a recent facelift due increased demand. I’ve found simple but clean beachfront 2 bedroom apartments for 340€ night in June. There are also a few luxury choices for up to 3400€/night for a sleek 5 bedroom hilltop villa with pool.