This is the unexpected story of Mykonos. The good, the bad and the surprising slow side you never heard about.
So, I decided to take one for the team and venture forth to find the slow side of Mykonos. I went in mid August when I knew the madness would be at a fever pitch. I figured if I could find serenity in August, I am guaranteed that it will be even more so any other month of the year. What I found more than convinced me to invite you to throw away all your preconceived notions of party central and prepare for a slow travel discovery of this Cyclades gem. Mykonos is chic, sexy, full of real Greek flavor and undeniably romantic. Bring your lover here for memory making and you will not regret it.
Mykonos is undoubtedly the most famous, or infamous island in Greece. Usually this is the kind of destination Travellur avoids. Too much traffic, too much party, well, just too much. But I had also heard some really good things about Mykonos. Naturally I was attracted to the boho-chic good looks and, of course, all that whitewashed stucco.
Scorpios Beachclub
The Cyclades are a group of Greek islands that include Paros, Delos, Tinos, and Andros. They share a distinctive style of architecture – curvilinear, brilliant white stucco, blue shutters and stone paving. As with most Greek islands, they are arid, rocky yet blessed with sandy beaches and that crystal clear water which is so alluring.
I arrived at dusk and from the moment I left the airport, I was spellbound by the velvet soft light blending sky and sea. Driving to my B&B, I was struck by how the low-rise buildings scattered around the landscape are entirely undisturbed by commercial build-up or the incongruent high-rise. The roads are sheltered by ancient dry stone walls which zig-zag across fields of grazing goats and handsome horses. Life seems surprisingly simple and authentic once you get out of town. This is the slow experience I had and the one I’d like to share with you.
The church situation on Mykonos is something I’ve never encountered before. Rare is the town church visible from miles around such as one sees in England or France. Rather, everywhere there are small, intimate family chapels at almost very farmstead or hamlet. Diminutive and unassuming, they suggest a very different approach to religious adherence – and certainly enrich the visual charm of the landscape.
Mykonos is served by multiple daily flights from Athens as well as direct flights from most large European cities during the summer months. Ferries operate from the port of Athens and connect the other Cyclades islands. This is a great way to get around and bring your car – island hopping is easy and fabulous.
First bit of advice; do not stay in the town of Mykonos. Rent a car and stay on the other parts of the island beyond the daily tide of cruise ship day visitors. Look for accommodation around Agios Sostis or Kalafatis beach. There you will find authenticity, quietude and plenty of space on the beach. Yes, even in August.
Second bit of advice: unless you are in your mid-twenties and looking to party until dawn, I advise avoiding Paradise Beach and Super Paradise Beach. Ornos and Platis Yalos are simply tacky and overcrowded. Do not go there.
There are a couple of grown-up beach clubs I would recommend for lunch or when you decide you need to see and be scene. Principote on Panormos beach is posh and stylishly serves food and spa services. If you decide it’s not for you, at least you are already at one my recommend beaches. Panormos beach is vast and under populated, plus has ample parking. One of the few reasons you might have to go to the town side of the island is Scorpios Beach club. This is where you will find rich hippies, a sexy post-apocalyptic subculture, excellent cocktails and high quality music. Good day and night, reserve your table in advance. For hipster cool vibes and an off-the-beaten-track exclusivity, here’s a hidden gem for you: Alemagou beach club. Laid waaaay back and serving a fresh, simple, local menu, you will always feel comfortable and welcomed here.
The food is what you might find throughout the coastal regions of Greece – hello grilled octopus! There are a few dishes particular to Mykonos worth trying, like the kopanisti; a spicy cheese and louza, which features pork and can also be spicy. There is a glutton of high end, cosmopolitan eateries sure to please the most cultivated palate. Try the black cod at the Gastromony Project the slick Bill & Coo hotel (warning: you will have to brave the town for this – parking nightmare) If you need a break from Greek food, fall back on Nobu Matsuisa’s Matsuisa at the famous Belvedere hotel (also in town – valet parking available). But my favorite place is an open air, no reservation, casual beach restaurant called Kiki’s Tavern serving the best, freshest seafood with no fuss, no sign and no electricity. Oh, and no website or telephone number either. You just gotta go there and wait for a table.
WHEN TO GO
May through October is good if you want to swim in the sea. Many hotels, resorts and restaurants close in the winter months when it’s a veritable ghost-town island. Beware that in August, prices are higher and the Cyclades are susceptible to seasonal winds that blow relentlessly for days at a time. It’s a relief from the summer heat, but certain water activities such as boating are not possible due the wind waves.
WHERE TO STAY
TheMykonos Thea B&B is charming, understated and affordable. So undercover, they don’t have an instagram account. You’ll love the views, private beach and end-of-the-road tranquility. Book your stay through Travellur and receive 10% off. The Mykonos Princess is the most Instagrammed hotel on the island. Expect the prices and clientele to reflect that dubious distinction. Opening in May 2020 is the Soho Roc House - modern lines intersecting with raw natural textures make this chic property my future favorite. Looking for spa like Zen and grotto-like private pools? Stay at the Cavo Tagoo a boutique hotel with sweeping views, minimalist interiors and an excellent spa.
WE GOT THIS
There’s a lot more slow to discover in Mykonos and the other Cyclades. Travellur can build it all into a custom vacation for you and save you money. Discounts on hotel and villa bookings will pretty much cover our fee so you’ll have the best time at the best price. Spend your time enjoying the sunset instead of looking for parking. Spend your money on a mojito instead of overpaying for accommodation.
